Chasing the Blues:
A Journey Through Historical Markers

The Mississippi Delta isn’t just a region – it’s the soul of the blues, where music rose from hardship, hope and raw emotion. Every town, street corner, and juke joint tells a story, with historical markers standing as testaments to the legends who paved the way.

Greenwood sits at the heart of this history, the perfect home base for any blues traveler. Step into smoky clubs where guitar strings once wept or onto street corners where voices first gave rise to the blues. These landmarks shaped an iconic sound – let’s explore them.

Greenwood: Deep in the Delta’s Soul

Greenwood doesn’t just whisper the blues – it sings them. Juke joints pulse with sound, and the ghosts of guitar-strumming legends linger in the warm Delta air.

No name looms larger in Greenwood’s blues folklore than Robert Johnson. Legend tells of his fateful deal at the crossroads, trading his soul for a sound that reshaped music. Three headstones claim to be his final resting place, but the most accepted stands at Little Zion Missionary Baptist Church. Visitors leave offerings – guitar picks, whiskey bottles, half smoked cigarettes – in homage to a man whose spirit still bends the strings of every blues riff played today.

Greenwood’s blues legacy extends beyond musicians. Deejays played a crucial role, spinning records that carried the blues beyond the Delta. WGRM, the station where B.B. King made one of his first broadcasts, helped spread the sound worldwide. These deejays weren’t just voices on the radio; they were tastemakers, ensuring the blues reached new audiences.

Baptist Town, one of Greenwood’s most historic neighborhoods, remains a living blues museum. Once home to Robert Johnson and other musicians, its streets still echo with their spirits. The Elks Lodge, a hotspot for traveling and local musicians, saw legends like Guitar Slim, known for his wild stage antics and searing guitar solo. Greenwood also played a role in Furry Lewis’ career, a country blues master who carried the Delta blues tradition into the 20th century, influencing generations.

Another legend with deep Greenwood ties, Hubert Sumlin, forever changed the sound of blues guitar. As the electrifying force behind Howlin’ Wolf’s biggest hits, his signature style – marked by searing solos and unpredictable rhythms – became a cornerstone of Chicago blues and influenced generations of rock and blues musicians. But before he found fame, Sumlin’s journey began in Greenwood, where music isn’t just a pastime – it’s part of the land itself. From the rich Delta soil to the backroad juke joints, the rhythms of the blues set him on the path of becoming one of the widely known guitarists in history.

Greenwood markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail:

Clarksdale: The Crossroads of Blues (57 Miles Northwest)

If the blues has a ground zero, it’s Clarksdale. Music breathes through its streets, from dusty sidewalks to neon-lit juke joints. Here the blues weren’t just played – they were lived.

At the Delta Blues Museum, visitors trace the music’s origins through artifacts from pioneers like Muddy Waters, B.B. King and John Lee Hooker. Inside Muddy Waters’ restored cabin, imagine him, guitar in hand, shaping the blues into something bigger than any one musician.

Nearby, the Riverside Hotel stands as a monument to blues history. Once a hospital where Bessie Smith passed away, it later became a haven for traveling musicians. Sam Cooke, Robert Nighthawk and Ike Turner all found shelter here. Clarksdale also lays claim to an early rock and roll spark – Ike Turner’s Rocket 88, recorded at Sun Studio in Memphis, often ranks as the first rock and roll song. Long before fame, Turner honed his craft in Clarkdale’s raw blues scene.

WROX, one of the first radio stations to feature Black announcers, gave the blues a powerful voice. Meanwhile, barbershop philosopher Wade Walton blended sharp razors with even sharper blues licks, telling stories through music. Big Jack Johnson merged tradition with fiery, contemporary energy, while Cotton Pickin’ Blues served as a reminder of the labor that captivated the music’s rhythms.

At night, blues spills into the streets. Ground Zero Blues Club, co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman, captures the spirit of old juke joints – loud, raw and real. For an even grittier experience, Red’s Lounge delivers the blues as it was in the beginning – pure, emotional and unfiltered. Even as Clarksdale honors the past, it’s also embraces how the blues continues to evolve, inspire and transform.

Clarksdale markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail:

Indianola: The Home of B.B. King (31 Miles Southwest)

Indianola isn’t just another Delta town—it’s the heartbeat of B.B. King’s legacy. The King of the Blues may have traveled the world, but his soul never left the Delta.

Just outside town, the B.B. King Birthplace marker stands as a reminder of his humble beginnings. Born Riley B. King, he spent his early years working the fields under the Delta sun. As he toiled, he absorbed the soulful harmonies of gospel and the raw, heartfelt strains of the blues sounds that would later define his unmistakable voice and groundbreaking guitar work.

In town, Church Street once thrived as the center of African American life, where blues filled pool halls, cafes, and juke joints. Young B.B. King played here before finding fame. Another blues giant, Albert King, walked these same streets, developing a sound that influenced rock legends like Jimi Hendrix and Eric Clapton.

Club Ebony, one of the Delta’s most iconic venues, has been a cornerstone of the region’s rich musical heritage. Established in 1948, this place became a must play stop on Chitlin’ Circuit, drawing some of the greatest names in blues. Over the decades, its stage hosted Ray Charles, Count Basie, Bobby “Blue” Bland and B.B. King himself. No matter how famous he became, King always returned to play for the town that raised him.

Today, Indianola keeps B.B. King’s spirit alive at the B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center, a world class museum dedicated to preserving his legacy and the broader story of the blues. This is where visitors follow his journey from a small-town boy with a guitar to an international icon. The museum immerses guests in King’s life showcasing personal artifacts.

Indianola markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail:

Greenville: The River’s Blues Legacy (53 Miles Southwest)

Greenville’s blues history flows as deep as the Mississippi River itself. This was a place where music and struggle intertwined, where juke joints lit up Nelson Street, and where the blues found a powerful voice.

At its peak, Nelson Street was one of the most vibrant blues strips in the South. Clubs and cafés lined the road, hosting legends and local talents alike. Prince McCoy, one of Greenville’s earliest blues pioneers, played here, laying the foundation for the sounds that would define the Delta blues. His influence carried on, inspiring a generation of musicians who made their mark on this legendary street.

But Greenville’s blues story isn’t just about the music—it’s also about the fight for freedom. Just outside town, Freedom Village became a refuge for displaced sharecroppers and civil rights activists, a symbol of resilience in a changing South. The blues, born from hardship, echoed the struggles and triumphs of those who called Freedom Village home. Though the juke joints may have faded, the spirit of Greenville’s blues scene lives on.

Greenville markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail:

Leland: The Blues Highway (45 Miles West)

Leland sits at the crossroads of history, where highways and music intersect to create something unforgettable. The Corner of 10 and 61 isn’t just a meeting of roads—it’s where the Delta’s rhythm pulses strongest, a place where blues musicians gathered, guitars in hand, ready to play their souls out.

One of Leland’s most famous sons, Johnny Winter, was a blues-rock firestorm, a white-hot Texas guitarist with the soul of a Delta bluesman. His sound, raw and electric, carried the blues into the rock era, influenced by the Mississippi roots that shaped him. He wasn’t the only one—Leland also gave the world James “Son Ford” Thomas, a man who molded both music and art. His intricate clay sculptures were as soulful as his blues, each telling a story of life in the Delta.

When the sun set in Leland, the night came alive at Ruby’s Nite Spot. More than just a club, Ruby’s was a proving ground for the best in blues, hosting legends and up-and-comers alike. If you could make it at Ruby’s, you could make it anywhere. The smooth, soul-drenched voice of Tyrone Davis carried from these same Delta streets, his music blending blues with the new sounds of R&B, keeping Leland’s musical legacy alive in every note.

Leland markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail:

Cleveland: From Delta Fields to Global Stages (45 Miles Northwest)

Cleveland’s impact on music is anything but minor. It’s a place where the past and present harmonize—where the old blues sound still lingers in the air, yet modern music continues to evolve. At the heart of Cleveland’s blues history is Chrisman Street, once the bustling epicenter of the city’s African American business and entertainment district. Lined with clubs, cafes, and barbershops, it was where bluesmen gathered. But Cleveland’s story isn’t just about guitars and juke joints—it’s also about soul and spirit.

Today, Cleveland honors its musical heritage at the GRAMMY Museum Mississippi, a state-of-the-art institution dedicated to the rich musical legacy of Mississippi artists. Even W.C. Handy—the Father of the Blues—found inspiration here, recognizing the raw power of the music that would become his life’s work.

Cleveland markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail:

Discover the Rhythm of Greenwood

If you’re visiting Greenwood to explore the rich legacy of Mississippi Delta blues, stay and immerse yourself in its rhythm. Then, stray beyond its borders to uncover the legendary blues landmarks that define American music. Plan your journey with our interactive map, and let history lead the way as you Find Your Beat from the Heart of the Delta.

Chasing the Blues: A Journey Through Historical Markers