Exploring the Heart of Mississippi Blues:
A Journey Through Greenwood’s Historic Trail

Greenwood, located in the heart of the Mississippi Delta, is renowned for its rich blues history. The city has played a pivotal role in nurturing legendary musicians and fostering the blues movement. It proudly boasts several stops along the Mississippi Blues Trail, a cultural odyssey that leads travelers through significant landmarks and sites that are integral to the evolution of this soulful genre.

Currently, there are eight MS Blues Trail markers in Leflore County, which include Robert Johnson’s gravesite, B.B. King’s birthplace, Hubert Sumlin, Elks Hart Lodge No. 640, Baptist Town, Guitar Slim, Furry Lewis and the WGRM Radio Station. When the Blues Trail is complete, it will consist of more than 100 historical markers throughout the state that note significant places and faces in the story of America’s music.

Baptist Town (1800s)

Half a mile from Greenwood’s Main Street, our first stop is Baptist Town, a neighborhood steeped in blues music and black history alongside the city’s cotton industry boom dating back to the 1800s. It’s a cradle of creativity for blues legends like Robert Johnson and Honeyboy Edwards, where the soulful strains of the genre shaped this community’s essence. The McKinney Chapel M.B. Church and remnants of a former cotton compress testify to Baptist Town’s heritage. David “Honeyboy” Edwards’ tales intertwine with the lore, shedding light on Robert Johnson’s final days in 1938, marking a pivotal moment in blues history. Exploring Baptist Town offers a chance to walk among musical pioneers, feel the pulse of the blues, and grasp the enduring legacy of its residents’ music—a profound cultural experience just half a mile away from Main Street, yet a world of history lies within.

Blues DeeJays

Located in Greenwood, Mississippi, the Blues Trail marker honoring the Blues Deejays stands as a testament to the pivotal role played by radio personalities in amplifying the vibrant sounds of blues music. Positioned amidst the city’s historical landscape, this marker pays homage to the influential deejays who served as musical missionaries, spreading the soulful rhythms of the blues far and wide. These deejays, such as “Daddy” Stovepipe (pictured), Sonny Boy Williamson II, and others, became the gatekeepers of the blues, using the airwaves to introduce audiences across the nation to the raw emotion and storytelling embedded in this musical genre. Their broadcasts not only entertained but also catalyzed the spread of blues culture, shaping the trajectory of American music. The marker is a reminder of their invaluable contribution, immortalizing their legacy within the colorful tapestry of Greenwood’s blues history.

Elks Hart Lodge No. 640

In the mid-20th century, the Elks Hart Lodge No. 640 emerged as a pivotal hub for rhythm and blues within the Delta region, becoming an indelible cornerstone of African American life in Greenwood. Situated just a mile from Main Street, this iconic venue transcended mere entertainment, fostering a vibrant cultural scene that echoed beyond musical boundaries. Here, luminaries such as B.B. King, T-Bone Walker and James Brown graced the stage, delivering performances that ignited not only the night with electrifying music, but also conversations that fueled the Civil Rights movement. The lodge served as more than a venue; it was a catalyst for change, using the power of music to unite communities and shape the city’s social fabric. Its legacy remains a testament to the intersection of music, activism and cultural resilience within Greenwood’s storied history.

Furry Lewis

Walter “Furry” Lewis, a revered figure in the Memphis blues revival of the 1960s and ’70s, originally hailed from Greenwood, Mississippi. Despite his groundbreaking recordings in the 1920s, Lewis worked odd jobs, including street sweeping in Memphis. His musical resurgence through new recordings, TV appearances and films showcased his enduring talent. Born around 1899 in Greenwood (with conflicting records), Lewis journeyed from his Mississippi roots to Memphis, where his legendary music career began. Despite setbacks like losing a leg while traveling, Lewis persisted, performing across various venues and making influential recordings in the late 1920s. His career saw a renaissance in the 1960s, supported by author Sam Charters and embraced by a new generation of fans. Lewis’s impact extended nationwide, with notable performances, television appearances and honors from esteemed musicians like Joni Mitchell. His legacy lives on as a luminary in blues history, and he was later inducted into the Blues Hall of Fame in 2012. Among a cohort of influential blues guitarists from Leflore County, Lewis left an enduring mark on the genre alongside notable names like Robert Johnson, Elmore James and others.

Guitar Slim

Eddie Jones, also known as Guitar Slim, was born on December 10, 1926, in Greenwood, Mississippi. He was a guitarist in the 1940s and 1950s and is best known for his hit song “The Things That I Used to Do”. The song was produced by Ray Charles and released by Art Rupe’s Specialty Records in 1954. It topped the Billboard R&B chart for several weeks and was listed in the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame’s ‘500 Songs That Shaped Rock and Roll’ list. It also played a significant role in the development of soul music.

Slim pioneered rock and roll and experimented with distorted tones on the electric guitar a decade before Jimi Hendrix came onto the music scene. Around 1950, he adopted the stage name Guitar Slim and became known for his wild stage act. He wore bright-colored suits and dyed his hair to match them.

Guitar Slim was the hottest name in the blues world in 1954 when he burst out of New Orleans with the smash hit “The Things That I Used to Do,” but in the Mississippi Delta where he was born and raised, people still knew him as Eddie Jones, a choir boy turned jitterbug dancer. During his teenage years, Slim worked in cotton fields and spent his free time at juke joints, where he began performing as a singer and dancer. He was so talented at dancing that he earned nicknames like “Limber Leg Eddie” or “Rubber Legs.”

Although his career was tragically short-lived, Guitar Slim was a true showman. He had an assistant who followed him around the audience with up to 350 feet of cord between his guitar and amplifier. Sometimes he even rode on his assistant’s shoulders or took his guitar outside the club, stopping traffic. He has been cited as a major influence by many blues and rock guitarists, including Buddy Guy, Chick Willis and Lonnie Brooks, as well as Frank Zappa, Stevie Ray Vaughan and Billy Gibbons. In 2007, he was inducted into the Blues Hall of Fame.

Hubert Sumlin

The marker commemorating the birthplace of Hubert Sumlin, the exceptional blues guitarist, is a testament to the legacy of a musical genius. Born on November 16, 1931, at the Pillow plantation, Sumlin’s roots in the heart of blues history shaped his remarkable journey. His early exposure to the blues clashed with his mother’s disapproval of the genre as “the devil’s music.” Despite this, Sumlin’s innovative musicality and irresistible charm captivated fellow musicians and fans alike. His impact spanned far beyond Mississippi, resonating in the pulsing heart of Chicago blues and transcending boundaries with collaborations alongside renowned artists across diverse musical genres. The marker is a tribute to Sumlin’s profound influence and enduring legacy in music.

Robert Johnson

The Robert Johnson Blues Trail marker is a poignant tribute to the enigmatic blues legend whose influence on music remains unparalleled. Located at the intersection of Money Road and U.S. Route 61 in Greenwood, Mississippi, this marker signifies a pivotal moment in blues history. It marks the crossroads where, according to legend, Johnson made a deal with the devil, exchanging his soul for mastery of the guitar. This intersection holds an almost mystical significance in the blues narrative, symbolizing the intersection between folklore, music and the enduring legacy of Robert Johnson. The marker encapsulates snippets of Johnson’s life and musical impact, celebrating his short but monumental career and his profound influence on the blues. Visitors stand at this crossroads, feeling the weight of Johnson’s mythology and his unparalleled contributions to music, making it a must-visit location for blues enthusiasts and those curious about the origins of this iconic musician’s legend.

WGRM Radio Station

The WGRM Blues Trail marker in Greenwood, Mississippi, commemorates the legacy of WGRM, a radio station crucial in preserving and promoting blues music. Located in downtown Greenwood, near Howard Street, this marker pays homage to the pivotal role of WGRM in amplifying the blues across the Delta region. The station served as a beacon for blues enthusiasts, broadcasting the soulful tunes of local and legendary blues artists, ensuring the genre’s recognition and longevity. One of the most famous blues artists of our time, B.B. King, was born in LeFlore County, and his voice was first broadcast on Greenwood’s WGRM radio station in 1944. The marker highlights the station’s historical significance, honoring its dedication to preserving the rich cultural heritage of the blues. Visitors can explore this marker and reflect on the profound impact of WGRM, appreciating its integral role in fostering the appreciation and preservation of blues music in the region.

As you conclude this journey through Greenwood’s vibrant blues history, the markers scattered across this city are a testament to a rich tapestry of musical and historical heritage. Each marker unveils stories of resilience, innovation and cultural significance, painting a vivid picture of the profound impact of blues music. From the crossroads where legends like Robert Johnson made their mark to the bustling streets that echoed with the tunes broadcasted by WGRM, these markers serve as waypoints, guiding us through the intertwined tales of hardship, triumph and the enduring spirit of the blues. As you bid farewell to Greenwood, carry with you the echoes of these markers that remind us of the profound legacy left by those who shaped the very soul of this city and contributed immeasurably to the world’s musical landscape.

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